Located in Napa Valley, the retro Dr. Wilkinson’s Backyard Resort & Mineral Springs is the ultimate homebase for a trip full of wine and wellness. Located on Calistoga’s main drag, Lincoln Ave, it’s easily identifiable by its original neon sign and mint-hued vintage 1952 Buick. As the name implies, Dr. Wilkinson’s is more than a resort — it’s a mineral hot spring oasis. The ethos of wellness helmed by John “Doc” Wilkinson and his wife Edy, remains inherent in the property over 70 years after its inception. Wellness seekers from around the world continue to flock to the rejuvenating mud baths and healing waters.

Here’s what makes this historic wellness resort the must-stay place while visiting Napa.

WHY IT’S AWESOME

Dr. Wilkinson’s re-opened in 2021 after a multi-million dollar interior renovation and stayed true to its mid-century roots while remodeling guest rooms with comfortable and modernized amenities. Think furnishing with rounded edges in bright orange and pink hues, funky floor lamps and rugs, color-blocked art, retro-looking appliances such as a small sky-blue Galanz fridge, white bicycles with picnic baskets, and more.

Throughout the year Dr. Wilkinson’s offers various events and activities for guests including backyard Pinot & Pétanque games and Wilk’s Wine Night during Visit Calistoga’s Fourth Fridays.

I got to experience the millennial-pink oasis during Wellness Week where I enjoyed activities including yoga on the front lawn, paint and sips, and a candle-making workshop. The highlight was a Cannescape dinner and breakfast self dosed with THC oil ($650 including hotel stay).

IN HOUSE FOOD + DRINK

When Dr. Wilkinson’s reopened a few years back it came with a new addition — a new on-site all-day restaurant, House of Better. Open to the public and situated on the property’s front lawn with patio-style dining tables, the counter-service restaurant and bar was created by Trevor Logan of Green Chile Kitchen in San Francisco and the Sonoma-based Chile Pies Baking Co.

House of Better serves healthy Southwestern-inspired dishes such as green chile stew, green chile cheeseburgers, and grilled fish tacos. For dessert, dig into Logan’s famous fresh-baked pies offering an array of mouth-watering flavors like the green chile apple pie with a cheddar crust, walnut streusel topping, and a spicy chile glaze.

You won’t find cocktails here but you can order local beer and wine with your meals. During your stay at the resort, detox to retox with fermented drinks, adaptogenic mushroom teas, and CBD-infused beverages. Don’t forget to fill up your reusable bottle time and time again at the “fountain of youth” in the lobby. The water dispenser has an Aqua Ovo filtration system with rock salt, carbon, copper alloy, quartz crystal, and red clay that are alleged to have health benefits and are tasteless.

AMENITIES

Dr. Wilkinson’s has three spring-fed geothermal mineral pools filled with water sourced from Calistoga’s natural hot springs including a covered shallow circular mineral pool kept at 105 degrees Fahrenheit and a cold deluge shower in the Spa Garden. The other two are outdoors and are equipped with cozy lounge chairs, padded day beds, rentable cabanas, and vibrant murals.

The mineral waters have a near-neutral pH balance and have been evaluated by the Balneology Association of North America which certified that the healing water can strengthen skin, balance the peripheral nervous system, reset stressed nervous systems, and detoxify.

The highlight of any stay at Dr. Wilkinson’s is indulging in a mud bath — it’s the same treatment that guests have enjoyed for over seven decades. The secret blend of mineral-rich mud and organic Calistoga volcanic ash was created by Doc Wilkinson. The 60-minute $239 “Mudslinger” package includes a 15-minute mud bath and a 15-minute mineral soak — both in private tubs — a mud mask, steam room, and blanket wrap.

The mud doesn’t have much of a stench but I won’t lie to you and tell you it doesn’t look like manure. It can feel quite heavy, similar to a weighted blanket, and is hotter the deeper you sink in but feels incredible once you relax and allow the mud to rejuvenate your skin. Go ahead and book a 60-minute massage, I promise you’re not going to regret it. I loved the incredibly relaxing Amethyst Biomat Swedish Massage ($219).

The resort truly lives up to its tagline of “where wellness meets happiness” with life-sized chess pieces, a swing, and cozy hammocks in the backyard. There are small boutiques in the hotel’s lobby and the spa’s reception offering a variety of local apothecary products, world-renowned skincare items, and a mineral bath packet to recreate the mineral bath experience at home. If you loved the faded pink branded robes or plush resort towels you can buy them here as well as my favorite reef-safe sunscreen, Sun Bum.

Amenities:
• Three spring-fed geothermal mineral pools
• Cold deluge shower
• Day beds & cabanas
• Mud baths
• Life-sized chess board
• Swings
• Hammocks
• Free wifi
• Onsite restaurant
• Pet friendly

ROOM TYPES

It’s no surprise that the 50 refreshed guest rooms at the motel-like hotel embody California cool with a blend of vintage and modern aesthetics. I stayed in a Deluxe King room on the ground floor near the pools. The warm color palette of the room’s decor pops against the stark bright white walls and oak floors. Adornments include one-of-a-kind handmade pottery pieces by local ceramics studio NBC Pottery.

I loved the easy access of walking out of my room in the blush robe directly to the bar counter to get a MUD\WTR and then into the mineral pools first thing in the morning. The Malin + Goetz peppermint shampoo was so invigorating that I went home and bought a similar one with a peppermint scent. Props to Dr. Wilkinson’s for using reusable containers for its toiletries which are more eco-friendly. There are also recycling bins around the property and water refill stations.

There’s a mix of guest room types to choose from including a standalone one-bedroom bungalow, three Spa Cottages with clawfoot tubs, and a 1924-vintage Victorian bunkhouse with five rooms that sleeps 15 and is perfect for bachelorette spa getaway parties. Regardless of which room you book, you’ll have a Google Nest voice-activated speaker loaded with local information, a mini Galanz refrigerator, Smeg kettle with coffee and tea. Be warned that the beauty minibar on the pink shelf in the bathroom isn’t included in the price of the room — the products, including facial oils, masks, and CBD creams are available for purchase.

BEST THING TO DO WITHIN A 15-MINUTE WALK

Calistoga is a darling town in Northern Napa that’s very walkable, but if you want to venture further — or faster — borrow one of the white cruiser bicycles at Dr. Wilkinson’s. Head to Calistoga Roastery for hand-roasted coffee and baked treats and then browse the paintings at Sofie Contemporary Arts Gallery. Drop into the women-owned Picayune Cellars and Mercantile for a $35 tasting of their sustainable wines — the Champagne and Albariño are both excellent. Get a scoop or two of organic ice cream at Calistoga Creamery. Want to try more local wines? August Briggs Winery and Tank Garage Winery are within walking distance.

THE BEST THING TO DO/EAT/DRINK WITHIN AN HOURS DRIVE

The best way to get around Napa is with a hired driver so you don’t have to worry about driving under the influence between wine tastings.

• The Napa Valley Wine Train — The wine train may be a bit kitschy but it’s a nostalgic way to see the Napa Valley and enjoy fantastic wines. Go for the $245Wine Train Gourmet Express Lunch and order a wine flight as you sit back and enjoy the journey.
• Old Faithful Geyser of California — Calistoga is home to its very own Old Faithful Geyser (one of three in the world) which isn’t much of a surprise considering the area’s geothermal activity. It’s only a 5-minute drive from Dr. Wilkinson’s and it’s fascinating to watch the water explode from the Earth. It’s $15 to enter unless you ride over on a bicycle which gives you a $3 discount.
• Sequoia Grove — This sustainable winery is my favorite of the dozen or so I’ve visited in Napa Valley over the last year. Make a lunchtime reservation for the $150 per person “A Taste For Cabernet” multi-coursed food and wine pairing crafted by Chef Britny Maureze. Her creations are expertly paired with Single-Vineyard and Reserve Sequoia Grove wines. You’ll leave convinced that Cabernet Sauvignon isn’t just meant to be enjoyed with a steak — it actually goes great with seafood too.
• Armstrong Redwoods State Natural Reserve — Walking amongst giant redwoods is a must while in Northern California. The ancient coast redwood can live 1,000 years, grow to a diameter of 16 feet, and is the tallest living thing on Earth at up to 350 feet tall. The fee is $10 per car to enter the reserve.

BED GAME

It might have been all the wine and cannabis I consumed on my trip but if it weren’t for the promise of a hot mineral spring a few steps away I would’ve never been able to get myself out of bed — the mattresses and super soft bedding is just that good. I’m also a pillow hog so I loved having four plush pillows all to myself.

Rating: 8/10

SEXINESS FACTOR

The millennial pink and femme design touches make this feel like a spot for a girl’s getaway whether it be to celebrate a birthday or a bachelorette party. I’m queer so I could certainly see myself enjoying some R+R with a girlfriend here but it doesn’t scream sexy secluded enclave for couples.

Rating: 6/10

THE VIEWS & PICS SPOTS

You’ll leave with a camera roll full of Insta-worthy shots at this colorful, joyful wellness resort. No photos are allowed in the mud baths so kiss goodbye your dreams of a picture covered in the brown gooey substance. But you can snap photos to your heart’s content in the mineral pools, the egg swings, pool cabanas, hammocks, and more.

Rating: 9/10

BEST SEASON TO VISIT

Napa Valley is fantastic to visit year-round. Dr. Wilkinson’s gets most bookings in spring and summer due to sunny weather but fall is a fantastic time to visit during the wineries harvest season. And what could be better than a hot spring in the dead of winter?

IF I HAD TO COMPLAIN ABOUT ONE THING

I’m gluten-free and vegan due to allergies and preferences and was disappointed by the lack of variety in the plant-based wheat-free meal options at House of Good, considering it’s meant to be a health-forward eatery and Dr. Wilkinson’s is a wellness retreat. The restaurant is celebrated for its pies and I was bummed I couldn’t try one.

BOOK HERE

Room rates vary depending on the day of the week and the season. Rates can be $279 on weekdays or $700 plus on weekends. The resort fee of $30 per night includes two Pathwater bottles, hydration packets, and therapeutic essential oils to diffuse in-room. Book your stay here.